In São Gabriel, we spent our days passeiando with our group, with the occasional excuse of promoting the professor's Nheengatu grammar book. It is a small town; by the third day there we had memorised most of the streets; by the fourth day the staff at the local lanchonete 'MacDragon' - what an awesome name - were greeting us like old friends. Hah. Okay, that's a lie - although, we basically went to that lanchonete 3 or more times each day, and as the days passed their service towards us gradually got faster. We took that as a sign of friendship; it was a great improvement from the first night, when I had waited one hour for an acerola juice pra viagem, 'to go'. Hahahaha. It's true what everybody says: the further north you go in Brazil, the slower and hornier the people get.
In between our meals and tapioca snacks at MacDragon, here are some of the things we did:
1) Guillaume and I visited the local health clinic. Of course - because, clearly I am the foreigner in Brazil with the most extensive and varied experiences in health services ever (!) - and what trip would be complete without a visit to the local posto de saude, right... I had caught something on the boat up the river.
We discovered, in the community pharmacy (i.e. in a room squished in between the lavatory and the consultation room, with a sign on the door marked 'farmácia'), that the military are the only ones who seem to be getting any in the whole municipality:
Town Pharmacy
Translation: Monthly Distribution of Condoms 2011, November. Women: 5; Students: 1; Homosexuals: 0; Health Professionals:1; Adolescents:0; Indigenous Peoples: 1; General Population: 2; Military:7.
(São Gabriel lays very close to the borders of Colombia and Venezuela; this is why there is a big military population in the region.)
Anyway, this was my best public health experience in Brazil as of yet - I walked in one day, gave my name and made an appointment for the next day. The next day, I went back, waited just thirty minutes to see a doctor, and was given what I needed. Nothing else! I only had to go to the northwestern-most point of the country for that...
2) We tried local fruits. And we found out what açaí is really like. Açaí as we know it here in the big city is really quite different. The açaí berry is like 95% composed of the seed - what we eat as açaí is the skin of the berry only...mixed with...slush? And with sugar! Up there, they sell it more as a drink than the kind of sorbet/slush that we have in São Paulo. There, it doesn't come sweetened, but you can add a teaspoon or two of sugar if you like. They also like to drink it with those Sago beads. The açaí seeds are often painted and used in jewelry by the indians - of which I brought some back with me!


The other extremely common fruit up there, is, of course, cupuaçu. Guillaume bought one on the last day in São Gabriel to take it back to Manaus. Everyone drinks the juice of this fruit and eats creme de cupuaçu up there! And so do people in São Paulo - but the thing is, nobody ever seems to know what the actually fruit itself is like! So we decided to find out. But the good old Federal Police confiscated our cupuaçu. Yes, you read correctly: they confiscated our cupuaçu as we boarded the boat back to Manaus.
Welcome to Brazil! Please meet the nonsensical Federal Police.
Anyway, it was a shame; I was in the middle of carving my name into the cupuaçu:
3) We found out a lot about indian culture from our new indigenous friend, Dani. She confirmed that many people in the region still take seriously the Lenda do Boto (The Myth of the Dolphin) : It is said that the Pink Amazon River Dolphin turns into a charming bachelor at night with good dancing skills, who woos innocent women into sleeping with him, and then turns back into a dolphin during the daytime. Women in the region who do not know who the father of their child is or whose child's father does not take responsibility are therefore considered 'victims' of the dolphin. Hm.
4) We made a group of catholic priests hate us. One night, we came back late to the Diocese and nobody had the room keys. The gate to the area where our rooms were was closed. But it was so late at night, and the professor was too ashamed to further annoy the priests, so we sat for hours as different people took turns trying to pick the lock to the gate. The boys considered scaling 10 metres up the walls of the building ; I advised them against it due to the strong thunderstorm going on. Eventually the professor gave up and went to sleep on a bench. We were sleepy and desperate to get into our beds, so a few of us decided to make every noise possible, clapping our hands in unison, whistling, turning the lights on and off to get the sleeping priests' attention...nothing worked. At something like 2AM one girl, Veronica, picked the lock.
Exhibit A: Rodrigo breaking into church property.
4) Guillaume and I prayed to São Antonio! This is the saint you pray to when you want to make someone stay with you forever and get married and bla bla bla. Yes, Brazilians love their saints. When we returned back to the diocese, I mentioned that this had occurred. 'Nãooo,' commented the professor, 'what you really need to do when you are trying to keep a man is give him coffee which has been filtered through your panties. That's how it's done here in Brazil.'
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Brazilian Equation for Long-Term-Love
5) We ate. From street vendors. Or...maybe 'house' vendors should be the term. Every single house up there had a little sign on the front door announcing vende-se dindin (ice blocks sold here) or temos refrigerante (we have soft drinks). When not accosting strangers at their front porches, we were buying salgados from the food stalls. I think at least half of the town population there were street-vendors by profession! This goes with my general sentiment on Brazil : it seem like everyone is selling something - no matter what it is - just something.
6) We drank. Caxiri - the local alcohol from mandioca (cassava?), pupunha (not even sure how to translate that one, it's some fruit from there), or abacaxi (pineapple). It is only allowed to be made by the indian women, who put those plants in their mouth, chew, and spit them back out to ferment. Then, it is only drunk by the men!
7) We pretended we were married. Everyone kept referring to us as husband and wife. Senhora, seu esposo está te chamando lá fora, they said, your husband is calling you outside, as the police were confiscating the cupuaçu from Guillaume when he boarded the boat back to Manaus. After a couple of weeks there we realised that this wasn't such a crazy thought up there - it seems common to get pregnant and start a family at a very young age in that region. A 35-year-old lady up there is already considered a velhinha (an elderly person).
8) We made friends with lots of insects. Cockroaches, pernilongos, mosquitos - you name it, they were hanging out everywhere we went! The largest one that we saw, however, was a louva-deus, which, according to our indian friend Dani, are consulted by pregnant ladies in the area to predict the sex of their child :
Guillaume and Louva-Deus. It's a boy! Hehe.
9) We took boats. One particularly memorable boat trip was to an indigenous community on an island an hour away from São Gabriel on the Rio Negro. One hour of pure rain and thunder in a dinghy (with no cover), with me questioning in loud Portuguese the safety of such a trip and saying my final goodbyes. I was sure I would die.
10) We went to the prainha (little beach). Heavenly. This next photo is taken at Ilha do Sol (Sun-Island), a little island a two minute boat ride from the prainha.
Returning to Manaus, we went with the 'fast' boat. It took one day instead of three; no hammocks:
The 'Fast' Boat
Rio Negro
Here are some more mixed photos from our trip:
Banks of Rio Negro
Cacao
Our local friend Dani told us that this dude is known around town because he had his leg amputated after a snake bite.
A common way that the restaurants and street vendors show what drinks they sell : Taping old cans together into a display.
Indians living on the rocks on the Rio Negro. They go there during the dry season and stay when the water rises.
In our beloved MacDragon.
At our Manaus Hotel. Someone used Google Translate !
In the church where we stayed. When I first saw this poster, I thought, why, that's Osama Bin Laden in a mug! and never managed to get that thought out of my head. It really does look like that, am I not right?
Trilingual Sign in São Gabriel : Portuguese, Nheengatu, Spanish.
The Boat Trip Of Death
Rio Negro in Manaus. An Indian Home - imagine having to swim to the toilet in the middle of the night!
Hike in São Gabriel